Vinous

Chalky, ashen inflections; piquancy of peach kernel and citrus rinds; and a firm feel all pull this athletically lean, lithe, energetic Riesling in a slightly austere direction, but infectious primary juiciness of white peach and grapefruit preserves a sense of generosity. Pungent mint and sage tweak the nostrils and lend a stimulatingly cooling note on the palate. A vibrant, indeed downright mouth-shaking finish resolutely retains both fruit intensity and stony, chalky, ashen underpinnings. If all goes well, this already formidable bottling will gain in nuance and charm with time in bottle.